Base camp Altitude: 3500m
Location: Chogo lungma Glacier
Time: June – August
Spantik peak also known as Golden Peak for its golden wall facing Hunza from the south. Spantik mostly consider as an attainable 7000m peak in the Karakoram region
Spantik lies in the Karakorum Range and its base camp can be reached in four days including one day for the jeep drive from Skardu. For about three days we will trek on end beside Chogo lungma glacier before we reach Spantik peak base camp 4100 meters.
Overall, the route and the campsites are objectively safe, and are not threatened by any real slide or rock fall danger. Given good snow and clement weather, the SE ridge provides very good, if not high, chances of summit success for prepared and focused climbers who are able to adapt to the demands of ‘expedition style’ mountaineering.
Spantik 7027M: The South East Ridge Route
The south East Ridge rises 2700m over a lateral distance of 7.6kms. The ridge provides easy angle of mostly less than 30o slopes. In a few sections the ridge steepens to 40 degrees. Wherever necessary these sections will be fixed. The route is an interesting excursion through varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and scree. The upper sections are well defined ridge tops of hard ice culminating in the summit dome.
Base Camp to Camp 1
From base camp, the ascent to Camp 1 follows a moderate slope, at first on grass and gravel then up to a rocky ridge with sections of loose scree. Camp 1 is placed on a rock platform just below the snow line ( 3-5 hrs climbing).
Camp 1 to Camp 2
The climb then follows the undulating ridge on snow to a level patch of snow where we place Camp 2 (5 hrs climbing). The terrain is heavily crevassed and roped travel is essential by all members.
Camp 2 to Camp 3
Above this the slope steepens and anywhere up to 500m of fixed rope will be set between camp 2 and camp 3. The first section of 300-400m will be set on an open 35° slope leading to a large snow platform. After a few hundred meters of easier ground, a second section of 150m will be set as the slope steepens to nearly 40°. Just beyond this, Camp 3 will be placed on a wide snow ledge below the summit slopes (5 hrs climbing).
Camp 3 to Summit
The route to the summit from camp 3 is technically quite straightforward but can be a very demanding day physically. A gentle slope rises to a height of 6550m where it steepens to join the SW ridge. This is then followed for 400m at an average angle of 30° until it levels out 100m below the summit. The top of the mountain is a rounded snow dome and 50m of rope may be fixed on the short section leading onto the summit slopes (6-8 hrs ascent/2-3 hrs descent).
Day 01: Arrival in Islamabad /hotel
Day 02: Islamabad- Chilas drive 12hrs/hotel
Day 03: Chilas-Skardu drive 6-8hrs/hotel
Day 04: Skardu
Day 05: Skardu- Arandu jeep drive 7-8hrs/camp
Day 06: Arandu- Tsas Chumic trek4-5hrs/camp
Day 07: Tsas Chumic- Bolocho trek5-6hrd/hotel
Day 08: Bolocho- Spantik Base Camp trek 3-4hrs/hotel
Day 09-24: Climbing activaties
Day 25: Spantik Base Camp- Bolocho
Day 26: Trek to Arandu
Day 27: Drive to Skardu
Day 28: Skardu - Chilas drive 8hrs/hotel
Day 29: Chilas-Islamabad
Day 30: Departure