Shispar peak (7611m)
Base camp Altitude: 4000m
Location: Passu Glacier
Time: June – August
Shispare Peak (7611m) lies at the east of the Batura Wall, which is the highest part of the Batura. The Hunza River curves around the south west, and northwest sides of the Batura Muztagh, and Shispare towers above the western bank of the river.
Shispare is notable for its tremendous rise above local terrain. For example, the nearby town of Karimabad, in the Hunza Valley, has an elevation of 2,060 m (6,759 ft), making for 5,550 m (18,210 ft) of relief, in only 13 km (8 mi) horizontal distance. Being near the end of the Batura Muztagh, it commands large drops in three directions (north, east, and south). In addition, Shispare has a strikingly large and steep north east.
Shispare was the first major peak in the range to be successfully climbed, in 1974, by the “Polish-German Academic Expedition” under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit.
The first ascent route followed the Passu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Pasu and Ghulkin glaciers. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the “southeast ridge” and the “northeast ridge” in different sources.) Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to the ridge required 1500m of fixed rope.
Day 01: Arrival in Islamabad/Hotel
Day 02: Drive to Chilas 11-12hrs / hotel
Day 03: Drive to Karimabad Hunza 6-7 hrs/hotel
Day 04: Karimabad - Borith lake 3-4hrs/ camp
Day 05: Borith- Luzhdur 3660m 5-6hrs/camp
Day 06: Luzhdur – Passu Peak base camp 4-5hrs /camp
Day 07-44: Climbing activities
Day 45: Passu Peak bc to Borith lake-Passu 6-7 hrs/ hotel
Day 46: Day free at Passu/hotel
Day 47: Drive to Gilgit /hotel
Day 48: Drive to Naran via Babusar Pass 6-7 hrs/ hotel
Day 49: Naran – Islamabad 8hrd drive/hotel
Day 50: Departure