Broad Peak (8047m)
Altitude at the Base camp: Min 600m – Max 8047m
Duration: 50 days
Best Time: June – August
Broad Peak (8047m) local name “Falchan Kangri”. It has also been called enormously triple-headed Breithorn (4,165m high three-headed peak of European Alps) of the Baltoro. It has a strong presence in its environs neighboring K2.
The route involves climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach CII at around 6400m. A final camp is placed at 7400m from where a summit bid is made.
The climbing will not be extremely steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have its own unique flavor.
There have been several winter expeditions to Broad Peak since 1987/88 when Andrzej Zawada, a noted Polish climber, considered a pioneer of winter climbing in high mountain regions led the first.
The new route up the South West Face was climbed by Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov in Alpine style in July 2005. Valery Babanov and his partner Victor Afanasiev climbed Broad Peak central pillar up the West Face via a variation route in alpine style in 2008.
Day 01: Islamabad- airport /hotel
Day 03: Islamabad – Chilas: drive 11-12 hrs/hotel
Day 04: Chilas – Skardu: drive 8hrs/ hotel
Day 05: Skardu-Trekking preparation
Day 06: Skardu- Askoli(3050m): Jeep drive 6-7hrs/camp
Day 07: Askoli- Jula(3180m): Trek 4-5hrs/Camp
Day 08: Jula- Paiju (3400m): Trek 5-6hrs/camp
Day 09: Paiju: rest day
Day 10: Paiju-Urdukas(4000m): Trek 5-6hrs/camp
Day 11: Urdukas- Goro II (4380m): Trek 7hrs/camp
Day 12: Goro II-Concordia (4700m): Trek 6-7 hrs/camp
Day 13: Concordia – K2 BC 5-6hrs/camp
Day 14-42: Climbing activities
Day 43: Concordia- Ali Camp (4800m): Trek 4-5hrs/camp
Day 44: Ali camp Gondogoro La (5940m) Xhuspang (4680m): Trek 7-8hrs/camp
Day 45: Xhaspang- Schiacho (4300m): Trek 6-7hrs camp
Day 46: Sciacho- Hushe: Trek 3-4 hrs/camp
Day 47: Hushe- Skardu : Jeep drive6-7 hrs/hotel
Day 48: Skardu- Besham 11-12 hrs/hotel
Day 49: Besham-Islamabad 5-6 hrs/hotel
Day 50: Departure